Saturday, July 18, 2009
Surfin' Safari
Me and my surfing mate (a lad from Leicester I used to work with at NineMSN, he married an Aussie lass and been here about six years) went up the coast last weekend for a weekend's surfing. We went to Pacific Palms, which is about an hour north of Newcastle and about three and a half from Sydney.
It's got beaches that face all directions, so as long as there's swell coming in from somewhere, you're pretty much guaranteed some waves.
We rented a house, which was cheap as it's winter, but it was still warm and sunny every day, with an easterly swell bringing good waves to one of the beaches. Three days solid surfing (or three days solid paddling about trying to surf...) fair took it out of me and then on the last day I got chucked about by a freak ten foot wave that came tearing into the bay. We were out waiting for a wave when this huge thing came rolling in. When that happens you tear out towards it trying to paddle over the top of it before it breaks, but I paddled up it's face just in time for it to break and it threw me into the air a cracker before spinning me about like a washing machine. Similar to the day of cricket we had for Dan's birthday a couple of years ago, I was shuffling about aching like old man Steptoe for days later... I took the picture above and I've put more on Facebook, including some of the Kookaburras that came and sat on the balcony looking to be fed.
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